Tom Grundy's Enchanted Tower NM 2008 Climbing Page

Julie had another break in the end of October, so we headed to the Enchanted Tower near Datil NM. We both were getting close to our projects at the pit, so we tried them the day before we left (just to get extra tired before we went to an endurance climbing area). We picked up mini-trailer and headed on down the road. The drive was uneventful, but we did see a lot of pronghorn antelope.

The weather seemed unseasonably warm, it was very pleasant, although cold at night. We mostly climbed in the shade, although it was nice to sit in the sun in between climbs, and climbing in the sun wasn't too bad. There were draws hanging on "Technowitch", so we started out on that. I fell at the top the first go because I couldn't remember or puzzle out the sequence quick enough but I got it the next go. Then I let Julie convince me I needed to step up and climb something on the front side of the tower. Despite the fact that a 70 M rope is needed to lower from the top of these climbs, I started up "Zee Wicked Witch" direct. The guide was a little hazy but suggested it was 5.11c to the midpoint anchors. It sure didn't feel that way, but after much hanging, I did manage to get to the top. There was so much rope drag I just topped it out and dropped the rope. In subsequent attempts I lengthened and skipped draws as required to greatly decrease the drag.

Thorsten on "Zee Wicked Witch"
picture of Enchanted Tower
Thorsten again on ZWW
picture of Enchanted Tower

The general pattern for climbing days was to head out climbing around 10:30 when it was a bit warmer, then climb for a few hours until we were pretty worked and then take an extended lunch/siesta/break before heading back out in the late afternoon for another attempt on our projects. I was working on "Zee Wicked Witch" and Julie was working "Technowitch" (notice the enchanted theme). On rest days we walked up a rather larger than it appeared hill to get cell phone reception and pick some pinyon nuts. It seemed to be a rather bumper crop.

The tower cliffs from high on a hill
picture of Enchanted Tower
Pinyon pine cone
picture of Pinyon Pine Cone

There was another group from Telluride there, including Andy who I had met at the Red River Gorge. We all knew a number of the same people, so there were some entertaining campfire conversations. On the weekend there were a number of other climbers there which increased the "sports action" while sitting in camp and looking up at the cliffs.

After 3 days I finally managed to send my project which pleased us both (me because I sent a spectacular route up the front of the tower, Julie because she was done with the 40 minute belay sessions). It featured a very good rest at the midpoint anchors with a large pocket (big enough to arm bar in) and then another 6 or so bolts of steep climbing to the top of the tower. In the try before I sent it I fell at the last bolt after the hardest climbing was over.

The Enchanted Tower
picture of Enchanted Tower
Andy climbs "rubber mission" on the Tower
picture of Andy on the Enchanted Tower
Julie tapes up to protect her digits
from the sharp pockets
picture of Enchanted Tower

On another rest day we drove to Socorro where we checked out the mineral museum and internet at the library. We also took advantage of the much cheaper gas and saw the "straight talk express" bus and a McCain rally (just a heap of people on the side of the road waving signs) - this was the eve of the election, and it turned out to be a lost cause as Obama took New Mexico.

On the 4th, the temperature was a good bit cooler and it was pretty windy - not bad for climbing, but not so pleasant for hanging around. After some Climbing we moved out of the canyon to where we could get radio reception to follow the election results - even if it was mostly a lot of call in and non-news interspersed with occasional actual results.

The drive back was very slow due to high winds. We stopped at a petrified wood/fossil/mineral/junk store in Holbrook. I was impressed with some of the specimens they had, and some of the high prices. All in all, a highly successful trip even if I didn't get any pictures of us climbing because I was busy either climbing or belaying at the time.

The stars are quite nice here
picture of Enchanted Tower
The tower is somewhat lit by the crescent moon
picture of Enchanted Tower

For further reading and pictures check out my 2007 Enchanted Tower climbing page

Return to the Index Page